His talent and drive have earned Besh critical kudos from the outset
of his career: in 1999, Food & Wine named him one of the "Top 10 Best
New Chefs in America." In 2003, Gourmet magazine included August in its
"Guide to America's Best Restaurants," and in 2006, it cited August as
one of America's Top 50 Restaurants. In 2005, Chef Besh received a
nomination for a James Beard Award, and in 2006, he won the Beard Award
for Best Chef of the Southeast. Also that year, he defeated Chef Mario
Batali on Iron Chef America on The Food Network, scoring a victory in the
andouille sausage battle. The 2007 Zagat Guide rated August #1 in New
Orleans for both Food and Service. Also in 2007, Chef Besh was selected
to compete in Food Network's Next Iron Chef, succeeding in every
challenge, and finishing as runner-up in Kitchen Stadium. Rounding out
the year, he and jazz musician Wynton Marsalis were selected portraits of
creative visionaries whose passion for what they do has transformed our
culture in the third season of the original series Iconoclasts on the
Sundance Channel.
Besh received his formal training at the Culinary Institute of America.
His love of classical cooking styles, together with his "born on the
Bayou" Creole heritage, drew him to Europe for further culinary
exploration and training. In the Black Forest region of Germany, Besh
experienced his first exposure to truly localized cuisine, a concept that
remains essential to his cooking and menu development. Local farmers and
artisans would bring their choicest goods directly to the
Michelin-starred restaurant where he worked; brook trout were caught live
and kept fresh in the cold stream running deep below the centuries-old
building. He also spent time in the south of France refining his
classical sensibilities, while the flavorful stews and roasts of the
region informed his understanding of his own native cuisine, the Creole
cooking of southern Louisiana. The young chef's early career was
interrupted when, as a noncommissioned officer of the United States
Marine Corps Reserves, he was called upon to lead a squad of infantry
Marines in combat during Operation Desert Storm.
Besh's appreciation for local ingredients and local cuisine has only
increased since Hurricane Katrina, as he considers these essential to the
survival of the peoples and cultural heritage of New Orleans. No one is
more keenly aware of the fragility of the region's culinary traditions.
The immediate aftermath of Hurricane Katrina found Chef Besh in a
rowboat, looking for staff members in the flooded streets of New Orleans.
With his wife and four young sons evacuated safely to North Carolina, he
remained focused on his other family - his restaurant team. Within days,
Besh was serving red beans and rice to relief workers. He flew to
Washington, DC to participate in "Po'Boy Power!" - an event organized by
fellow chefs that raised over $27,000 in just one two-hour stretch, one
po'boy at a time.
In addition to getting his own restaurants, the elegant contemporary
August and chic Besh Steak, up-and-running as soon as possible after the
storm, he was also instrumental in rebuilding other establishments such
as Willie Mae's Scotch House, one of the city's venerated culinary
landmarks in the ninth ward.
With his friend and business partner Octavio Mantilla, he acquired the
charming and rustic La Provence in Lacombe, Louisiana from his late
mentor, legendary Chef Chris Kerageorgiou; and also opened Lüke, a
brasserie in the grand New Orleans tradition, a cultural legacy that Besh
could not allow to slip away. All the while, he has been the energetic
spokesman for the Louisiana Seafood Council, as well as a member of the
Southern Foodways Alliance; and a Board Member of the Southern Food and
Beverage Museum. Besh is active in a state promotional program created
by Lieutenant Governor Mitch Landrieu, who tapped the chef to prepare
meals with the media in an effort to showcase the cuisine of
Louisiana.
Besh's European training made him an aficionado of local farmers
markets, and he has many friends among the farming and commercial fishing
communities of southern Louisiana; in fact, it is not unusual to see
their names on his menu items. From farmers who have been working the
land in Lacombe for generations, to the newly arrived Vietnamese farmers
who provide the delicate baby vegetables for August, Besh's network of
local purveyors is the key to his culinary style. In fact, his
commitment to sustainable local ingredients has led him to become his own
organic farmer: not only has he created an extensive kitchen garden on
the grounds of La Provence, but he is also raising his own livestock from
Berkshire Pigs to Gulf Coast Sheep to Charolais cattle for the
restaurants.
The menu at August is both serious and playful, much like the chef
himself. Besh takes his food and its preparation seriously, but creates
with a whimsical flair: for example, one of his signature dishes on the
August lunch menu is the "BLT," cited by Gourmet magazine, which consists
of buster crabs, lettuce, and tomatoes on pain perdu. His signature
dishes at dinner include his Hand-made Potato Gnocchi tossed with Blue
Crab and Black Truffle; Moroccan-spiced Duck with Creamy Delta Grits,
Roasted Duck Foie Gras, and Preserved Quince; and to finish, Père Roux
Cake, whose recipe was derived from that of a famed local baker and
Catholic priest.
In Americas's oldest fine dining city, this boy from the bayou has
built a thriving restaurant group. Each venture reflects his
broad-ranging culinary passions, benefits from his dedication to local
products, and - though his palate has taken him around the world -
celebrates the multi-faceted cuisine of his beloved southern
Louisiana.
Pan Roasted Wild Alaska Halibut with Morel Confiture, Sweet Pea Risotto and Morel Tea
Serves: 4
Ingredients and Preparation:
For the Halibut:
4 Alaska halibut steaks, cut into 5-6 oz. portions
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated finely
1/2 cup all purpose flour
Sea salt to taste
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
- Season each portion of halibut with sea salt and dredge into the
combined mixture of flour and Parmesan cheese.
- Sauté over medium high heat for several minutes on each side
until the fish is cooked to medium. Reserve the fish in a warm place
for later use.
For the Sweet Pea Risotto:
1 small yellow onion, diced
1 oz. extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup Arborio rice
2 cups chicken broth (hot)
1/2 cup sweet peas or English peas, blanched
1/4 cup morel mushrooms, washed, sliced and drained
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 oz. grated Parmesan cheese
1 pinch chives, fresh, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
- In a 2 quart sauce pan over medium heat, sweat the yellow onions
with the extra virgin olive oil until the onions are translucent.
- Once the onions have cooked add the Arborio rice and stir slowly
for two minutes. Cover the rice with chicken broth and allow to simmer
while periodically stirring. As the liquid is absorbed by the rice,
cover again with the hot chicken broth and stir again until absorbed.
- Once the last of the chicken broth has been added the rice should
be cooked. You will notice it is firm to the bite and just a little
'soupy,' at this point add the sweet peas, morel mushrooms and butter.
- Stir the rice mixture for one moment and season to taste with salt
and pepper.
- Finish the rice with the grated Parmesan cheese and chopped chives.
Place each portion of rice in a serving bowl and reserve in a warm
place for later use.
For the Morel Tea:
1 cup morel mushrooms, dried
1 sprig thyme, fresh
1 clove garlic, hand crushed
1 qt. vegetable broth (hot)
- In a large teapot place the dried mushrooms, fresh thyme and
garlic.
- Just before serving pour the vegetable broth into the pot and all
the flavors to steep for a few minutes. Reserve the tea for serving as
a sauce.
For the Morel Confiture:
1/2 cup morel mushrooms, dried, reconstituted and rough chopped
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1 small onion, diced and browned
1 tsp. lavender honey
Salt and pepper to taste
- In a small pot over low heat bring the above ingredients to a
simmer and allow to reduce until "sec" or nearly dry.
- Remove the mixture from the heat and allow to cool to room
temperature before using.
To Serve:
- Place the fish over each mound of risotto.
- Over each fish, place a small quenelle of morel mushroom confiture
before serving. Now serve the fish with the tea on the side.
- Once the dish has been served pour 2-4 ounces of tea into the bowl
surrounding the fish and risotto.
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Blackened Wild Alaska Cod with Fennel and Orange Salad
Prep Time: 15 Minutes
Cook Time: 10 Minutes
Ingredients and Preparation:
For the Lemon Vinaigrette:
1 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. fresh lemon zest
1 Tbsp. minced shallot
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and Pepper, to taste
For the Fennel and Orange Salad:
1 fennel bulb
4 oranges
Pinch cayenne pepper
Pinch sugar
Salt and Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 (6 oz. each) wild Alaska cod fillets
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Blackened seasoning or Creole spice blend, to taste
1/4 cup fresh chopped chives
Small sprigs from 1 fresh dill branch
- Place all vinaigrette ingredients into a bowl, whisk together until well mixed; set aside.
- For the salad, slice the fennel crosswise as thinly as possible, then place into a medium bowl.
- Cut off the top and bottom of each orange. Stand the oranges on one end; slice off the peel and white pith from top to bottom, cutting around the entire orange.
- Working over the fennel bowl to catch the juices, cut out each fleshy fruit segment from between the membranes on each side.
- Squeeze any remaining juice left from the orange pulp into the bowl; discard the pulp.
- Add the vinaigrette, cayenne pepper, and sugar to the fennel and orange segments. Toss gently, then season with salt and pepper to taste.
For Cod and Serving:
- Season cod with blackened seasoning to taste.
- Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat.
- Add the fish and cook 3 to 5 minutes on each side until bronze in color and opaque throughout.
- On each of 6 plates, place a piece of cod. Top fish with one-sixth of the salad mixture. Garnish with chives and dill.
Makes 6 servings.
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Wild Alaska Halibut
with Mushrooms and Roasted Fingerling Potatoes
Prep Time: 10 Minutes
Cook Time: 20 Minutes
Ingredients and Preparation:
4 oz. olive oil
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 sprig basil
1/4 cup parsley leaves
Salt, to taste
12 oz. fingerling potatoes, quartered lengthwise
2 (6 to 8 oz. each) wild Alaska halibut portions
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 shallot, chopped
8 oz. favorite mushrooms, thick-sliced
1 sprig rosemary, leaves only
2 sprigs tarragon, leaves only
1 sprig thyme, leaves only
2 lemon wedges
In a food processor, place 3 ounces of the olive oil, half of the garlic, basil and parsley. Pulse until almost smooth; set aside.
- Place a large (10-inch) pan over medium-high heat.
- Add remaining olive oil; swirl to coat pan bottom. Stir in potatoes.
- While potatoes are browning, season the halibut with salt and red pepper flakes.
- Once the potatoes are a light golden brown, stir in the shallot and remaining garlic.
- Cook 1 to 2 minutes, or until lightly browned.
- Stir in mushrooms; season lightly with salt.
- Place the fish on top of the potato mixture; sprinkle on the rosemary, tarragon and thyme leaves.
- Reduce heat to medium, add one tablespoon of water, immediately cover the pan and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until the fish begins to flake.*
* Or, using an oven-proof pan and lid, place covered pan directly into a 450°F oven and cook for 8 to 10 minutes until fish begins to flake.
To Serve:
- Divide the potatoes and mushrooms between 2 warm plates.
- Place the fish pieces on top and drizzle liberally with the herbed oil.
- Squeeze a wedge of lemon over each plate before serving.
Makes 2 servings.
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Lacquered Wild Alaska Salmon in Butter Lettuce Cups
with Vietnamese Dipping Sauce
Prep Time: 40 Minutes
Cook Time: 30 Minutes
Ingredients and Preparation:
4 oz. rice noodles, uncooked
2 cups soy sauce
3 cups sugar
1 lb. 8 oz. wild Alaska salmon fillets (skin removed), cut in 4 oz. pieces
2 cups seasoned rice wine vinegar
3 cloves, minced
1/2 to 1 teaspoon sambal olek chili sauce
1 carrot, shredded
2 heads butter (or bibb) lettuce
1/4 cup olive oil
1 medium English cucumber, cut matchstick-size
3/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves
12 sprigs Thai basil leaves
12 fresh mint leaves
In a stock pot, heat 1 gallon of water to a boil. Season with salt; cook noodles until tender. Pour noodles into a colander and run under cold water. Toss the cooled pasta with a small amount of oil (sesame or olive) to keep from sticking. Set aside.
For Marinade:
- In a sauce pot over medium heat, combine soy sauce and 2 cups of the sugar.
- Simmer until the sugar dissolves completely.
- Remove from heat; cool marinade completely.
- Place the salmon in a large non-reactive bowl, pour the cooled marinade over the fish and marinate for 20 minutes.
For Vietnamese Dipping Sauce:
- While salmon is marinating, blend the rice wine vinegar, remaining one cup of sugar, minced garlic and sambal chili sauce in a medium pot.
- Heat mixture until the sugar dissolves. Remove from heat; add the shredded carrot. Cool sauce.
For Lettuce Cups:
- Rinse the lettuce leaves in cold water and let dry on paper towel.
- Stack the leaves together, 2 or 3 high, until a sturdy cup is formed.
- Repeat process to form 12 cups.
For Salmon and Serving:
- Remove the salmon from the marinade and pat dry with a paper towel.
- Add olive oil to a large heavy pan, making sure to coat the bottom evenly; heat to medium-high.
- Carefully place the salmon into the pan.
- Cook until the bottom sides reach a dark caramel color; turn fish over and continue cooking until both sides are caramelized.
- Remove the fish from the pan. Cool fish slightly; break up into large flakes.
- Layer each lettuce cup with some rice noodles, flaked fish, cucumber sticks and a spoonful of dipping sauce.
- Top each cup with 1 tablespoon cilantro leaves, basil leaf and mint leaf.
- Serve with carrot sauce for dipping.
Makes 12 lettuce cups.
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Grilled Wild Alaska Cod Soft Tacos
Prep Time: 15 Minutes
Cook Time: 10 Minutes
Ingredients and Preparation:
1 Jalapeño pepper
Salt, to taste
2 large avocados, seeded and sliced
6 sprigs fresh cilantro
3 limes
1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped red onion, to taste
1/2 green bell pepper, diced
2 green onions, sliced
1 can (14.5 oz.) diced tomatoes, drained
1 lb. Wild Alaska cod fillets
1 to 2 Tbsp. Creole seasoning, to taste
6 flour tortillas (8-inch size)
1 oz. olive oil, divided
For Salsa:
- Preheat grill or heavy pan to medium heat.
- Rub or brush the jalapeño with 1 teaspoon olive oil, sprinkle on salt and place on the grill or in pan.
- Rotate the jalapeño until it is roasted and tender on all sides. Cool slightly.
- Using gloves to protect from burning, peel the pepper, slice lengthwise and remove the seeds.
- In a food processor, add half or all of the jalapeño (if spicier is preferred), avocado, half of the cilantro and the juice of half a lime.
- Pulse the mixture to the desired texture (less for chunkier or more for creamy) and season with salt, to taste.
- Place in a bowl, cover and reserve.
- Clean the food processor, then add the red onion, bell pepper, green onions, canned tomato, remaining cilantro and juice of two limes.
- Pulse the mixture until your desired texture for salsa. Season with salt to taste.
For Cod:
- Slice the cod fillets crosswise into 1-inch wide strips; then place in a bowl.
- Sprinkle on Creole seasoning, add remaining olive oil and toss to coat.
- Grill or pan-fry until fish is opaque throughout; remove from heat.
For Tortillas and Serving:
- Microwave the tortillas until warm, about 1 minute.
- Onto each tortilla spread 2 to 3 tablespoons avocado puree.
- Place cod pieces on top of avocado puree.
- Then top with 1/4 cup fresh salsa.
- Roll up or fold over the tortillas to eat.
Makes 6 tacos.
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